Wool, cotton, linen, straw, leather, cashmere — what actually matters when you're picking a hat that lasts
Walk into any hat shop and you'll see the same words repeated on every tag: wool, cotton, linen, polyester. But what do those words actually mean for how a hat feels on your head in July versus January? How it holds up after a year of regular wear? Whether it survives a suitcase?
After handmaking thousands of hats from every material on this list, we've learned that choosing the right fabric matters more than choosing the right style. A beautifully shaped beret made from the wrong material for your climate will sit unworn in your closet. The right material, on the other hand, becomes the hat you reach for every single day.
How to use this guide: Start with the comparison table if you want a quick answer. Read the individual sections if you want the full story — including care instructions that will extend the life of your hat by years, not months.
Side-by-Side Material Comparison
This chart compares the eight most common hat materials across the properties that matter most in daily wear. We've rated each from one to five stars based on hands-on testing — not manufacturer claims.
| Material | Warmth | Breathability | Durability | Packability | Water Resistance | Best Season |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool | Fall / Winter | |||||
| Australian Wool | Fall / Winter | |||||
| Cashmere | Fall / Winter | |||||
| Cotton | Spring / Summer | |||||
| Linen | Summer | |||||
| Straw / Raffia | Summer | |||||
| Leather / Suede | Fall / Winter | |||||
| Denim | All Year | |||||
| Corduroy / Velvet | Fall / Winter |
Material Deep Dives
Wool is the gold standard for cold-weather hats, and for good reason. The fiber's natural crimp creates tiny air pockets that trap body heat without adding bulk. But what most people don't realize is that wool also wicks moisture — it can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water before it even feels damp. That means your head stays warm and dry on snowy commutes.
We use wool across our newsboy caps, berets, cloche hats, and beanies. The weight and weave vary: a felted wool cloche has more structure and wind resistance, while a knitted wool beanie has more stretch and softness. Australian merino wool (which we use in several of our berets) has finer fibers that feel noticeably softer against skin — worth considering if you have a sensitive scalp.
- Cleaning: Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild wool-safe detergent. Never machine wash or wring — wool fibers mat and shrink irreversibly in hot water and agitation.
- Drying: Reshape by hand while damp and lay flat on a clean towel. Never use a dryer or hang from a hook (the weight of wet wool will distort the brim).
- Storage: Store stuffed with tissue paper to hold shape. Keep in a breathable cloth bag — never plastic, which traps moisture and invites mildew.
- Pilling: Light pilling is normal with wear. Use a fabric shaver or fine-tooth comb to gently remove pills. This won't damage the hat — it actually makes it look newer.
- Moths: Cedar blocks or lavender sachets in your storage area. If you won't wear the hat for several months, store it in a sealed container with cedar.
Cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats, and it shows. The fibers are roughly one-third the diameter of standard wool, which makes cashmere dramatically softer and lighter — but also three times warmer by weight. If you've ever put on a cashmere sweater and immediately felt the difference, that same experience applies to hats.
The trade-off is durability. Cashmere is more delicate than wool and will pill faster with friction. Our cashmere beanies are designed for people who want the softest, most luxurious winter hat they've ever worn and are willing to treat it with a little extra care.
- Cleaning: Hand wash only in cold water (below 30°C / 86°F) with a cashmere-specific detergent or baby shampoo. Soak for 10 minutes, gently press — never rub, twist, or wring.
- Drying: Press water out between two towels (roll gently). Reshape and lay flat on a dry towel away from direct heat and sunlight. Takes 24–48 hours.
- Pilling: More prone to pilling than wool. Use a cashmere comb (not a shaver) — combs are gentler on the delicate fibers. Remove pills after every 3–4 wears to keep it looking fresh.
- Storage: Fold (never hang). Store with cedar or lavender. Cashmere is even more attractive to moths than wool, so sealed storage is important during off-season.
- Frequency: Rotate with other hats. Cashmere needs 24 hours between wears to let fibers recover their shape.
Cotton is the most versatile hat material. It breathes in heat, absorbs sweat, softens with every wash, and plays well with dye — which is why you'll find it in more colors and prints than any other fabric. For hats, cotton sits in the sweet spot between casual and structured: firm enough to hold a newsboy cap's shape, soft enough to fold flat in a bag.
The limitation is cold weather. Cotton has almost no insulation, and when it gets wet, it stays wet. We primarily use cotton in our warm-weather bucket hats, summer berets, and kids' hats — where breathability and easy washing matter more than warmth.
- Cleaning: Hand wash in lukewarm water with mild detergent. Cotton hats can survive a gentle machine cycle in a mesh laundry bag, but hand washing preserves shape much longer.
- Drying: Reshape while damp. Air dry on a hat form, bowl, or balloon — anything that mimics your head shape. Avoid the dryer; cotton shrinks 3–5% in high heat.
- Stains: Treat immediately. A paste of baking soda and water works on sweat stains. For oil-based stains, dab with dish soap before washing.
- Ironing: Low-to-medium heat with steam. Cotton wrinkles easily, but a quick steam session restores shape completely.
- Color care: Wash dark and light cotton hats separately for the first few washes. Cotton dyes can bleed, especially in warm water.
Linen is nature's air conditioning. Made from flax fibers, it's 30% stronger than cotton when wet and conducts heat away from your body faster than almost any natural fabric. In testing, linen hats feel noticeably cooler than cotton hats at the same temperature — a difference you'll feel on your scalp within minutes.
The character of linen is in its texture: slightly slubby, beautifully imperfect, and it softens dramatically with age. A brand-new linen hat looks crisp. After six months of wear, it drapes with the kind of relaxed elegance that you genuinely cannot buy — you have to earn it. We use linen extensively in our oversized berets, newsboy caps, and summer bucket hats.
- Cleaning: Hand wash in cool water with gentle detergent. Linen gets softer with every wash — don't be afraid to wash it regularly.
- Drying: Never wring (linen creases permanently along fold lines). Gently press out water, reshape, and air dry. A slightly damp linen hat can be shaped on your head and it will dry to your exact fit.
- Wrinkles: Accept them — linen wrinkles are part of its charm. If you prefer a crisper look, steam lightly while reshaping. Never iron linen dry; always use steam or a damp cloth.
- Storage: Store stuffed or upside-down on a shelf. Linen hats flatten less than you'd expect — the fiber has natural springback.
- Sun exposure: Linen has natural UV resistance but will lighten with prolonged sun exposure. This aging effect is considered desirable by most wearers.
Straw and raffia are the quintessential summer hat materials, and they're not interchangeable. Straw (typically from wheat, paper, or toyo fibers) tends to be smoother and more uniform. Raffia (from the leaves of the raffia palm) has more texture, more flexibility, and better packability. Our raffia hats can be folded flat, packed in a suitcase, and pop right back to shape — most straw hats can't survive that.
Both materials are exceptionally breathable, virtually weightless, and provide natural sun shading. The main vulnerability is water: a straw hat that gets soaked will likely lose its shape permanently. Raffia is slightly more forgiving, but neither material should be your choice for rainy climates.
- Cleaning: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. For deeper cleaning, use a soft brush to remove dust from woven grooves. Never submerge in water.
- Stains: Dab gently with a cloth dampened in diluted white vinegar. Test on an inconspicuous area first — some straw dyes are not colourfast.
- Reshaping: If a brim warps, hold it briefly over steam (a kettle works) and gently press into shape. Only works on natural straw and raffia, not synthetic.
- Storage: Store brim-down on a flat surface or in a hat box. Never hang from a hook. Stuff the crown lightly with tissue to hold shape.
- Travel: Our foldable raffia hats (like the Foldable Raffia Straw Hat) are specifically engineered for packing. Regular straw hats should travel in a hat box or stuffed inside shoes in your luggage.
- Lifespan: With proper care, 2–4 seasons. The weave may loosen over time — this is natural and doesn't mean the hat is failing.
Leather is the most durable hat material you can buy, period. A well-cared-for leather hat will outlast everything else in your closet. It's naturally water-resistant, wind-proof, and develops a patina with age that makes it look better, not worse. We offer both genuine leather (smooth, structured, polished) and suede (softer, with a napped texture that reads more casual).
Genuine leather newsboy caps and berets carry a confident, slightly vintage character. Suede is subtler — it absorbs more light, drapes more softly, and pairs with casual outfits more naturally. We also offer faux leather options for those who prefer a vegan alternative without sacrificing the aesthetic.
- Cleaning (Leather): Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. For conditioning, apply leather conditioner once every 2–3 months with a soft cloth. This prevents cracking and maintains suppleness.
- Cleaning (Suede): Use a suede brush (always brush in one direction). For stains, use a white eraser or specialized suede eraser before trying any liquid cleaners.
- Water: Genuine leather handles light rain well. If it gets wet, let it air dry naturally at room temperature — never use heat. Suede is more vulnerable; apply a suede protector spray before first wear.
- Storage: Store stuffed in a cool, dry place. Leather needs airflow — never store in plastic. Use a hat stand or stuff with tissue paper.
- Scratches: Minor scratches on genuine leather can be buffed out with your thumb (the natural oils in your skin work as polish). Deeper scratches benefit from leather cream in a matching color.
Denim is cotton's tougher cousin. The twill weave makes it denser, more structured, and more resistant to wear. Like a great pair of jeans, a denim hat breaks in beautifully — the indigo fading patterns that develop with wear are unique to your hat and yours alone.
We use denim in newsboy caps, berets, and bucket hats. It works year-round: sturdy enough for cool autumn days, breathable enough for spring. The only season where it falls short is deep winter (not warm enough) and peak summer (a touch heavy for extreme heat).
- Cleaning: Spot clean whenever possible to preserve the natural fade pattern. When a full wash is needed, hand wash in cold water inside-out with a small amount of dark detergent.
- Drying: Reshape and air dry. Avoid the dryer — denim shrinks and the heat can set unwanted crease lines.
- Fading: If you want to preserve the dark color, minimize washing and avoid sun-drying. If you love the faded look, regular wear and sun exposure will accelerate the process naturally.
- Bleeding: New denim can bleed indigo dye onto light-colored hair or skin. Wash once before first wear and avoid wearing with light-colored tops until the excess dye has washed out (usually 2–3 washes).
Corduroy and velvet are textural powerhouses. Corduroy's raised ridges (called "wales") create visual depth and additional insulation by trapping warm air. Velvet's dense pile has a subtle sheen that catches light differently from every angle — it's the most photogenic hat material by a wide margin.
Both materials are a half-step warmer than cotton and significantly more interesting to look at. We use them primarily in newsboy caps and berets where their tactile quality really shines.
- Cleaning: Brush gently with a soft-bristle clothes brush to remove dust and restore the nap. For deeper cleaning, spot clean with a damp cloth — always stroke in the direction of the nap.
- Crushing: The biggest enemy of corduroy and velvet is compression. Never stack heavy items on top of these hats. If the pile gets crushed, hold the hat over steam and brush gently to restore it.
- Storage: Store stuffed, never folded flat. A crushed velvet nap is very difficult to restore fully, so proper storage is genuinely important with this material.
- Lint: Velvet is a lint magnet. A lint roller before heading out the door is standard maintenance. Dark colors (especially black) show lint most visibly.
Quick Decision Guide
Not sure which material to pick? Here are the most common scenarios and our recommendations:
Hot Climate / Summer Travel
Choose: Linen or Raffia Straw
Maximum breathability and UV protection with minimal weight. Our foldable raffia hats survive suitcases.
Cold Commute / Winter Daily Wear
Choose: Wool or Cashmere
Wool for durability and value. Cashmere if softness is your top priority and you'll care for it properly.
Year-Round, One Hat Only
Choose: Cotton or Denim
The most versatile materials. Won't overheat in spring or leave you cold in light autumn weather.
Rainy / Unpredictable Weather
Choose: Leather or Wax Cotton
Natural water resistance without spray treatments. Both develop character with exposure to the elements.
Sensitive Scalp / Allergies
Choose: Australian Merino Wool or Cotton
Merino's ultrafine fibers minimize itch. Cotton is hypoallergenic and the safest choice for sensitive skin.
Gift (Not Sure of Preference)
Choose: Wool Beret or Cotton Bucket Hat
Universally flattering, easy care, and our custom sizing means fit isn't a gamble. See our Best Sellers for the safest bets.
A Note on Material Blends
Many of our hats use blended fabrics — wool-polyester, linen-cotton, cotton-linen — and this isn't a shortcut. Blending is how you get the best properties of two materials without the worst of either. A linen-cotton blend breathes like linen but wrinkles less. A wool-polyester blend retains wool's warmth but adds stretch and resilience that pure wool can't achieve.
When you see a blend in our product descriptions, care for it according to the most delicate component. A wool-blend hat should be treated like wool. A linen-cotton blend should be treated like linen. When in doubt, hand wash in cold water — it's always the safest option for any hat material.
Universal Hat Care Rules (All Materials)
Regardless of material, these practices will extend the life of any hat in your collection:
- Never leave a hat in a hot car. Heat warps every material — straw, felt, leather, everything. The dashboard of a car in summer can exceed 160°F / 70°C.
- Handle by the brim, not the crown. The oils from your hands weaken fibers over time, and the crown is the most visible part of the hat. Grip the brim when putting it on and taking it off.
- Rotate your hats. Wearing the same hat daily compresses the fibers without time to recover. Even a one-day break between wears extends hat life significantly.
- Air out after wearing. Don't put a hat away immediately after wearing it. Set it on a surface brim-down for 30 minutes to let perspiration evaporate before storing.
- Sweatband care. The inner sweatband collects the most dirt and oil. Wipe it down with a damp cloth after every 5–6 wears to prevent salt stains from degrading the fabric.
- When in doubt, spot clean. A full wash is rarely necessary for hats. Most of the time, spot cleaning the affected area with a damp cloth and mild detergent is enough.
Find Your Perfect Material
Every hat in our shop lists its exact material composition. Use this guide to match the right fabric to your climate, lifestyle, and care preferences.
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